Tubeless Tires ?
- Thread starter ACR Tom
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swazi_matt
Active member
PHP:
Interesting ... this possibly explains why my front feels like it is bouncing along on the tar, how do you go about balancing a tire?
Fred1956
New member
Thats...pretty bold Fred...... I like your thinking here! Tires are not cheap.... I have been on the fence about this system....seems like where I would use a soft compound (Mich XC12 S), I could get away with a (MX51 or Mich XC12M?)
I will cut a old heavy duty tube down the middle (cut out valve stem) and use it as protective liner as add protection then install a really light weight tube..
to help combat pinch flats in the rocks.
With the TuBliss system it seems like this would not be required?
Thanks
The MX51 is NOT tough enough- tried 3 of them, ripped whole knobs off on 3 of them, and then called Jeff at TuBliss for advice, at that time he recommended desert rated 6ply tires (Dunlop AT739- pricey) I discovered that the old low cost stiff as heck tires do just fine at staying together with the TuBliss and with the low pressures you can run there is no sacrifice in 'bite'. I've run the Sedona MX907HP ($70) and now have the 887IT($72) on now and working great. Heck I'd try a ChengShin C755 if I could find one
Per instructions-always check BOTH valves before each ride, I have never balanced my tires anyway. They recommend stems to be within 4 spokes of each other to prevent damage but I've never quizzed Jeff about this
BTW Jeff's customer service is as good as it gets, he & Clay went to the same school
First thing is to put the bike on a stand and check your front wheel for runout. Mine was bad and I had to re-true it. The front tire would bounce on pavement (this was before I went with the Tubeliss system).
The Tubeliss system has both stems a short distance apart (stock had the rim lock 180* from the valve stem). With both stems close, there is a fair imbalance.
You don't need to get too fussy balancing a dirt bike wheel. I clamped a piece of 5/8" ground shaft in a bench vise. Shaft horizontal (checked with a level), sticking out past the end of the bench far enough to slide the wheel over. Turn the wheel slowly in each direction and see where it stops. The heavy spot will be down; mark the top of the rim. You will have two marks, one for forward and one for backward. Between these will be your light spot that needs weight added.
You can wrap heavy plumbing solder (soild core) around the spoke and tape over it when done (probably need to put it on three adjacent spokes to get enough weight). Try more spins forward and backward, when it's close enough the wheels stops anywhere (no more definite heavy spot).
You could do it on the bike, but bearing and seal friction will prevent you from getting good results. I found that the ground shaft allowed the inner races to slide over the shaft so there was no friction loss to cause trouble.
I'm sure there are more professional ways to do the job, but I'll never go more than 80 kph so perfection isn't necessary.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
So big improvements in unsprung weight are the real catch here. Along with some improvements in traction. I haven't had any traction issues with the MX51 at lower pressures 8-12psi depending on terrain and pace. I have also managed to rip entire knobs out of the rear and tear side lugs from the fronts. Usually when running too low a pressure for the terrain. Love the tyres and the combo I'm running though. Not sure if it would be worth the effort and coin to make the change and then find a tyre I'm happy with again. I'll wait for Trev to report back
nambo-trev
New member
So big improvements in unsprung weight are the real catch here. Along with some improvements in traction. I haven't had any traction issues with the MX51 at lower pressures 8-12psi depending on terrain and pace. I have also managed to rip entire knobs out of the rear and tear side lugs from the fronts. Usually when running too low a pressure for the terrain. Love the tyres and the combo I'm running though. Not sure if it would be worth the effort and coin to make the change and then find a tyre I'm happy with again. I'll wait for Trev to report back
Unsprung weight for sure would matter but how much less can they weigh than a heavy duty tube?? I had custom BST carbon fibre wheels on my rocket and that was a rediculous upgrade but I dropped almost 10lbs a wheel( and over 3Gs on them lol). I'd be more interested in the traction side. Why would they hook up better? If I can run 8lbs in the rear and 10 in the front without pinch flats why would I get better traction out of the same tire running at the same pressure? I'm confused?????
GMP
Active member
It's because the bead is held to the rim much more securely by the 110 psi liner, for a full 360 deg., not just at one rim lock location. The flex pattern is different as the tire does not move from the rim at low pressure. Here, in the gnarly rocks and slick stuff, a softer front that sticks and won't flat is huge. Also consider trail side repairs. If you do flat, from a tear of puncture from a small sharp rock, it's an easy fix with some plugs and your off.
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
I can see how it would be an advantage in those situations. For me running lower pressures I generally find the front end feels mooshy and wanders (similar feeling to riding with a flat) before I experience any issues with pinch flatting and turning the tyre on the rim though. That and the tyre starts to throw knobs. When I change tyres you can usually see some wear internally on the side wall from the flex too.
Rick
New member
nambo-trev
New member
That was an interesting read thanks for that
swazi_matt
Active member
The difference is that your 8psi on tubliss is your upper limit, I know guys that regularly run 4psi on the backSo big improvements in unsprung weight are the real catch here. Along with some improvements in traction. I haven't had any traction issues with the MX51 at lower pressures 8-12psi depending on terrain and pace. I have also managed to rip entire knobs out of the rear and tear side lugs from the fronts. Usually when running too low a pressure for the terrain. Love the tyres and the combo I'm running though. Not sure if it would be worth the effort and coin to make the change and then find a tyre I'm happy with again. I'll wait for Trev to report back
I am a Nuetech sponsored rider and could tell you all day long how awesome the system works. I am also amazed at how awesome Jeff Douglas at Nuetech is. He goes way over and above to make sure you are happy with his product.
I recommend anyone who is even interested in the TuBliss system to call him and let him tell you about it.
I recommend anyone who is even interested in the TuBliss system to call him and let him tell you about it.
roostafish
Gold Level Site Supporter
I've been running them since 2010. Amazing product. The best money you can spend on a bike outside of new tires and hand guards. The only thing that holds me back is you have to actually put air in them, twice per end. Mousse inserts are faster to change, but they don't last as long, and have a dead feel without the traction advantage.
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
Do they get that dead heavy flat feeling at such low pressures? Are you statisically increasing the odds of rim damage too? Dead givin the amount of additional traction you'd be finidng with 4psi on the back! Guess it comes down to the gnarlyness factor of your riding too.
nambo-trev
New member
Well good god what an ordeal getting these friggin things. I have a new set of rims coming so I don't have to take the trelleborgs off and need rubber for a race in a week so I had to go with tubes. Maybe first tire change ill buy a set. Tubliss does not seem to be very popular around here from what the shops are telling me.
GMP
Active member
Easy here, every corner Jap bike store has them, plus the web stores.
Jake,
You still have to make good decisions! If its fast, run higher pressures. It's the lower range of pressure that is extended. If traction is good enough that I can make speed, I'll run them harder, but they feel better to me regardless of pressure. Same logic I apply to the trials tire / knobby choice.
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Jake,
You still have to make good decisions! If its fast, run higher pressures. It's the lower range of pressure that is extended. If traction is good enough that I can make speed, I'll run them harder, but they feel better to me regardless of pressure. Same logic I apply to the trials tire / knobby choice.
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swazi_matt
Active member
There is often a fear of the unknown. This side of the world the shops also don't recommend it because they have had issues fitting it ... the best I had was from my local ktm dealer who said it didn't work. I later discovered that the the reason was that "since he was riding enduro and not mx" he was not pumping the inner to 100psi
