nambo-trev
New member
Have you checked yours yet bro?
2010 EC 300 Water pump shaft snapped & bearing collapsed
- Thread starter justsam
- Start date
Have you checked yours yet bro?
nambo-trev
New member
Here's a few pics of mine happy the impeller looks good even though there is slight sign of rubbing. This is about 130hrs on engine
GMP
Active member
Onespeed,
I've seen pumps designed for contact, and they ran a rubber impeller, formed a seal on the housing. Generally this is for higher pressures and positive displacement. The small electric water pumps in campers are like this. A high speed coolant pump should not do this, no other bikes do. Sure it's true if clearance is too large you loose flow, that's why I suggested you fit the impeller to the cover using clay as a gauge. I assure you guys my bike is pumping plenty of coolant, I worked the hell out of it yesterday on big full load climbs.
The green impellers were in the old bikes, they were the first ones that were known to break down and separate from the hub, usually after the bike got hot for another reason. My '00 had one. This is what inspired Les to start making alloy parts.
For the one that's rubbing the side of the pump housing, that can only be one thing, a distorted impeller.
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I've seen pumps designed for contact, and they ran a rubber impeller, formed a seal on the housing. Generally this is for higher pressures and positive displacement. The small electric water pumps in campers are like this. A high speed coolant pump should not do this, no other bikes do. Sure it's true if clearance is too large you loose flow, that's why I suggested you fit the impeller to the cover using clay as a gauge. I assure you guys my bike is pumping plenty of coolant, I worked the hell out of it yesterday on big full load climbs.
The green impellers were in the old bikes, they were the first ones that were known to break down and separate from the hub, usually after the bike got hot for another reason. My '00 had one. This is what inspired Les to start making alloy parts.
For the one that's rubbing the side of the pump housing, that can only be one thing, a distorted impeller.
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GMP
Active member
Trevor,
Yours does not appear to be rubbing. I believe that smooth area is machine work, but the casting is undersized in spots so the cut in not concentric. I have an older cover with a clean even cut. You can clearly see wear from contact within this machined area on another pic posted here.
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Yours does not appear to be rubbing. I believe that smooth area is machine work, but the casting is undersized in spots so the cut in not concentric. I have an older cover with a clean even cut. You can clearly see wear from contact within this machined area on another pic posted here.
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Jakobi
Super Moderator
How do I know if mines an old one or not though? Trevs looks really green and evident his has been in green coolant. Mine looks more orangish and well. I've always run orange coolant. It might have been white once. Either way I'm going to checkpoint it. With the maching on these, I assume you're machining the inner surface where the shaft mounts onto the back of the impellor.
I haven't yet but with all this talk I'm going to. I want to race a HS this weekend so I will wait until after since I probably couldn't get a gasket for the pump cover in time.
GMP
Active member
Jake,
I have no idea, but sure they could take a stain from the coolant. Trevor's is very green, the old ones were more of a translucent green. Mine came out white after a couple months in blue engine ice coolant.
Stu,
Sorry, yes the Checkpoint part is threaded.
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I have no idea, but sure they could take a stain from the coolant. Trevor's is very green, the old ones were more of a translucent green. Mine came out white after a couple months in blue engine ice coolant.
Stu,
Sorry, yes the Checkpoint part is threaded.
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Vindicator
New member
The impeller/shaft is probably not centered. If it was you should have the same marks on all the fins as they would all be at the same distance from the cover .
Mark Berg - CPD
Site Sponsor
I guess I should spend some more time on here, as I didn't see this thread until 5 people sent me the link yesterday. GMP is correct, the gasket has been the same since 1999, while they changed to a new housing in 2010. The new housing was to increase flow. I remember discovering one issue about a year ago, and I think it was taken care of, but until this thread I hadn't been contacted with any other water pump issues.
Clay sent an email urgently yesterday, and I sent one today as well. I will keep you posted with what GasGas Factory comes back to me with.
Clay sent an email urgently yesterday, and I sent one today as well. I will keep you posted with what GasGas Factory comes back to me with.
nambo-trev
New member
They should have my story on file at gasgas factory when my engine blew from this. Dave asked the factory to cover it and they said they wouldn't because I tried to move the bike after the damage had happened. Well no shtt Sherlock I was in the middle of the forest about an hour away from any road. I had to move the bike and therefore said my warranty was void. Dave fair ended up paying out of pocket for my new engine which was totally unfair to him as this was obviously a defect and again associated with water pump. Something is definetly wrong here that they don't have a huge sense of urgency over this issue.
nambo-trev
New member
Agreed but don't you think that this many people having this much trouble with this one system and its connecting parts is not suspect????
GMP
Active member
Girard, I think he means the pump itself, not any subsequent damage.
Now, what Mark said makes a lot of sense. Perhaps their attempt to increase flow in the new cover included reducing clearance, which was a bit too aggressive for the imprecise plastic impeller. Also explains why the Checkpoint impeller does not work out of the box, and was fine with the old cover. I know when Les designed his, he started with a Honda CR250 impeller and played with shims to get the clearance right.
Now how to best solve this problem? Ultimately that plastic part should go away. The cover should be fine as long as they are dimmensionally consistant. Although not pretty, I suspect they are, in the minimum depth of the bowl which is what the machine marks mean. So, they could provide a thin spacer plate and a couple gaskets at a minimum. Better would be a new properly dimmensioned alloy impeller.
Stavish should also be made aware of this so he can mod the part for the '10+ bikes/covers.
In the long run we may have done everyone a big favor. Blown motors cost more than sheet metal plates, impellers, and gaskets. I hate to see Clay stressing out over this, he shouldn't have to, but it is what it is. As long as a solution is brought to the table along with the complaint, I consider that staying positive.
Now, what Mark said makes a lot of sense. Perhaps their attempt to increase flow in the new cover included reducing clearance, which was a bit too aggressive for the imprecise plastic impeller. Also explains why the Checkpoint impeller does not work out of the box, and was fine with the old cover. I know when Les designed his, he started with a Honda CR250 impeller and played with shims to get the clearance right.
Now how to best solve this problem? Ultimately that plastic part should go away. The cover should be fine as long as they are dimmensionally consistant. Although not pretty, I suspect they are, in the minimum depth of the bowl which is what the machine marks mean. So, they could provide a thin spacer plate and a couple gaskets at a minimum. Better would be a new properly dimmensioned alloy impeller.
Stavish should also be made aware of this so he can mod the part for the '10+ bikes/covers.
In the long run we may have done everyone a big favor. Blown motors cost more than sheet metal plates, impellers, and gaskets. I hate to see Clay stressing out over this, he shouldn't have to, but it is what it is. As long as a solution is brought to the table along with the complaint, I consider that staying positive.
mcnut
New member
I've got my '11 250 apart now. I was getting some oil residue on the radiator cap. My impeller isn't rubbing but I've got a lot of miles on the bike so I'm gonna replace the bearing. When I replace the water pump seal with a new one, do I need to apply grease, oil, or put it in dry? I'm not familiar with this type of seal.
nambo-trev
New member
Oil+coolant always = bummer
john r b
Platinum Level Site Supporter
I've got my '11 250 apart now. I was getting some oil residue on the radiator cap. My impeller isn't rubbing but I've got a lot of miles on the bike so I'm gonna replace the bearing. When I replace the water pump seal with a new one, do I need to apply grease, oil, or put it in dry? I'm not familiar with this type of seal.
What does the coolant look like??
