?? Added flywheel weight to 2003 EC200, bike ran for test ride now wont start

Proper compression test- THROTTLE WIDE OPEN- kick the engine several times....at least 5 times, some will say kick until the needle stops moving
 
Proper compression test- THROTTLE WIDE OPEN- kick the engine several times....at least 5 times, some will say kick until the needle stops moving

I have performed many compression tests over the years as i restore classic cars for a hobby. I tested it 3 times because of the results. The last test i even removed the gas tank to make sure i was getting a seal. I even tested the gauge through my compressor after i finished and it is reading true.

However, I did find a mess inside the engine so far. The piston has a shared of metal rubbing the cylinder and has caused quite a nice grove in the cylinder.
 
I have performed many compression tests over the years as i restore classic cars for a hobby. I tested it 3 times because of the results. The last test i even removed the gas tank to make sure i was getting a seal. I even tested the gauge through my compressor after i finished and it is reading true.

No problem, but with 30 psi of compression I wanted to be sure. It looks like you found your problem. Be sure when you get the cylinder off to take a close look at the rod bearings on both ends, that looks like a needle bearing piece came loose........
 
Ouch!

Hows the timing on it though? Must have munched it at the end of the last ride. Surely you'd feel the lack of compression under foot with only 30psi too.
 
if you have spark then the problem isn't the kill switch wires (they kill the spark;) ) and won't be any other wire issues either. Keyway is a good clue it isn't a timing issue.
The only other thing is fuel/compression.

Is the plug getting wet after you have been trying to start it? Not wet = no fuel.
If the plug isn't wet try laying the bike on its side until fuel dribbles from the overflow then try to start it.

Next is to check the rings to see if they have stuck. My kid burned his rings (polite way to say he melted things) and the bike still felt like it had compression when trying to start it but wouldn't even pop.

just sayin'... :rolleyes:

Sent our cylinder to Millenium for replating and had good results.

wish it could have been a cheaper fix for you.
 
It is "resistance to turnover," doesn't matter if it's friction or compression. Hard to kick is hard to kick.

Take the spark plug out and tell me that.

I do imagine you would get much more resistance if something was lodged between the cylinder and piston though, so your point still stands correct! :D
 
Contact Millenium for the cylinder replating and allow them to sell you the piston, that way they can size the cylinder to the new piston. If you don't have a dealer close by then contact GoFasters for the gaskets.
 
the problem

The upper ring broke and wrapped around the head of the piston, causing grooving into the cylinder. Everything looked good every where else.
 

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One more questions

Is it odd to have 8 to 12 ounces of oil pour out of your pipe when you remove it. After disassembling the bike to rebuild the engine, i was cleaning parts and when i got to the pipe a good 8 to 12 ounces of oil had been sitting in the bend of the pipe for who knows how long.
 
Wow. It is what it is obviously, but that was a strange set of circumstances. Running one minute and then not restarting.
 
Wow. It is what it is obviously, but that was a strange set of circumstances. Running one minute and then not restarting.

You said it. It does not make sense unless it happened on the short ride and had enough to keep running but no restart.

The bright side of it is i am now rebuilding the entire bike. Is an 03 so it wont hurt to do the whole thing. I have decided to upgrade some parts as well. I love tax season. I am definitely going to upgrade the stock crappy magura hydraulic master cylinder clutch, mine operated as hard as a cable clutch.
 
Is it odd to have 8 to 12 ounces of oil pour out of your pipe when you remove it. After disassembling the bike to rebuild the engine, i was cleaning parts and when i got to the pipe a good 8 to 12 ounces of oil had been sitting in the bend of the pipe for who knows how long.

In my experience, the oil is left over from previous starting attempts that resulted in a flooded condition. As the oil doesn't burn, it just gets pumped through the engine until it reaches the lowest point of the system, usually the expansion chamber. The oil also prevents the engine from starting or running, as it effectively plugs up the system. Similar to stuffing a rag in the silencer.

So, yes, that is odd.
 
Thanks

In my experience, the oil is left over from previous starting attempts that resulted in a flooded condition. As the oil doesn't burn, it just gets pumped through the engine until it reaches the lowest point of the system, usually the expansion chamber. The oil also prevents the engine from starting or running, as it effectively plugs up the system. Similar to stuffing a rag in the silencer.

So, yes, that is odd.

Could have also contributed to the not starting.
 
Another Clue.....Good Lord

So, I got around to unpacking the silencer today and this was the result below. The packing was dripping in oil and when i removed the old packing the perforated inner tube is completely clogged with carbon, not just covered in oil but clogged. I am having to poke each little hole with a sharp object to break the carbon off. Might just buy a new one. Thank god i bought this bike so cheap.
 

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So, I got around to unpacking the silencer today and this was the result below. The packing was dripping in oil and when i removed the old packing the perforated inner tube is completely clogged with carbon, not just covered in oil but clogged. I am having to poke each little hole with a sharp object to break the carbon off. Might just buy a new one. Thank god i bought this bike so cheap.

Put that on the end of a stick and sell it to an angry villager! Perfect for chasing Frankenstein out of town.

Use a good propane torch to burn everything out from the tube, then attack with a wire brush. Good as used in no time.
 
I think that bike should have a AJP clutch not the magura. I have a 02 EC 200 and a 03 MC 250 and they both have AJP's on them.
 
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