APT SmartCarb

first testing

[also posted on ktmtalk]

My first test with the Smartcarb in my '11 Husaberg TE300 has been successful.

I could start it at 5 degrees C w/o using the Choke. It runs really smooth and responds better. The engine feels light and strong. Exhaust smell is different and smoke (1:40) is hardly visible with a warm engine.

Overall it feels better than every jetting I had before.

Here are some unboxing photos:
https://plus.google.com/106605015947956984891/posts

More to come..

Chris
 
Guy's check the on-line store. It say's basically out of stock of the 38mm.

APT will announce when the pre purchase program starts. We are waiting on the first die cast samples and once those are tested/proven we will begin production and take orders for the pre purchase deal. We are projecting our first release late spring 2013, but trying to move that timeline up. Thanks, we will keep everyone posted.

Corey
 
I don't normally publish dyno information simply for the reason that some people don't know what they are looking at, what a dyno is intended for and it creates a lot of confusion. Anyway....:rolleyes:

Corey

A 1/2 throttle & a full throttle run vs same with PWK would be interesting.

As a side point, with claimed 30% better fuel ecc; that would mean 30% less oil through the engine at any one time. Now presuming that a bunch is never really used & spat out with unburnt fuel, there is still less than before being thrown past bearings & onto the bore.

Easily mitigated by running a touch more oil I guess. Has any research been done into this? What about smaller droplet size?

Running less oil often results in less power so it doesn't seem to have affected top end adversely, so there must be adequate.

Sorry I missed if the cast ones were going to be easier fit (more PWK length).
 
As a side point, with claimed 30% better fuel ecc; that would mean 30% less oil through the engine at any one time. Now presuming that a bunch is never really used & spat out with unburnt fuel, there is still less than before being thrown past bearings & onto

I too would be interested in the what affect it has on the mix, and luberacation.
 
This was discussed on one of the threads.
To paraphrase (or perhaps plagiarize)

The oil is also atomized better, so lubricates better.
More power and less fuel is through a complete burn, therefore even with the same oil/fuel mix there is good lubrication.

(Well, that is how I read it- but my memory comes into play here...)
 
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Sure wish someone with a 4 stroker would chime in on their real world results. Was going to throw one on my wifes 250f depending.
 
I have spoke with Corey on the phone about 4stroke application and they have made them...whether or not we can preorder them or not would be the main question.

whether it is a fuel adjuster or an air adjuster...technically it should work either way if it works off vacuum from the engine. Then again if I was so friggin smart I would have made it myself...so only Corey and the boys could really answer this.
 
This was discussed on one of the threads.
To paraphrase (or perhaps plagiarize)

The oil is also atomized better, so lubricates better.
...)
Lubricates better? I wonder how that could be quantified? It would certainly spread better. But I think it would spread just fine now. Oil works by separating the two bits of hot metal with a thin film. The pressure of the two items against each other would determine the thickness of that film, I doubt it would be less than required. I think if I noticed substantial fuel consumption reduction I'd tip a bit more oil in just to stem any doubt. More oil can't hurt.
 
Lubricates better? I wonder how that could be quantified? It would certainly spread better. But I think it would spread just fine now. Oil works by separating the two bits of hot metal with a thin film. The pressure of the two items against each other would determine the thickness of that film, I doubt it would be less than required. I think if I noticed substantial fuel consumption reduction I'd tip a bit more oil in just to stem any doubt. More oil can't hurt.

You would think that Corey would have done all the testing and research nessesary before selling to the public...

I used to be ultra careful about mixing my oil and then tip abit extra in for luck, but when I mixed up my gas cans and ran a 80 mile race without premix with no problems I no longer worry to much about oil....
 
I used to be ultra careful about mixing my oil and then tip abit extra in for luck, but when I mixed up my gas cans and ran a 80 mile race without premix with no problems I no longer worry to much about oil....

Lol - I am impressed, maybe years worth of spooge inside cases getting churned up?
 
No one changes their oil ratio after they re-jet from sea level to 8-10K feet. The reduction in fuel flow in that case is as significant as the claimed reduction in fuel flow using the smart carb.
My bet is it is a non-issue.
 
You would think that Corey would have done all the testing and research nessesary before selling to the public...

I used to be ultra careful about mixing my oil and then tip abit extra in for luck, but when I mixed up my gas cans and ran a 80 mile race without premix with no problems I no longer worry to much about oil....

It's paramount to pay attention to your oil and you should always follow recommended mix ratio's, however modern two strokes can get by with priority oiling and use a lot less oil than one would think. E-TEC direct injection engines for instance, have a "dry" induction system that eliminates raw fuel from entering the crankcase and uses very little oil. Likewise highly atomized fuel/oil mix tends to separate the oil components out to do their job while the absence of liquid fuel in the crankcases acts much less like a cleaning solvent (raw fuel) to strip lubrication.

With the SmartCarb, even though less actual lubrication is being "carried" in with the fuel during a run, the oil that is has a much better chance of accomplishing it's purposes because it is not so highly diluted with raw fuel.

We have not experienced any lubrication issues to date with any of our products in the field. Typical top end rebuilds yes, however I have had several people tell me that they have experienced less cylinder/piston wear than before and the engines look beautiful inside.
 
Got my carb yesterday and had a quick look last night , looks like they changed the cable on the 2012 bike and the screw fitting where the cable sits in is too small , i have another with the diy cable kit but then found out the standard inner is too short as the slide bottoms out about 1/4 throttle .
Ill be back in the garage shortly so ill probably make up my custom cable.
 
After a bit off messing about i have made a new cable up , i took the bowl of the carb last night for a look and it seems i didnt fit the floats back correctly and promply flooded my engine , i rotated the carb over and tried to reseat the floats , no joy :rolleyes: , 3rd time i held the tang up ( not sure what you would call it ) while i offered up the bowl and refitted , this time all good.
Bike took a bit of starting but one started sleared its throught after a few mins , set the idle and left her running on low idle for 10 mins and came back to bike and give her some throttle , normally you would have to give most two strokes iv owned several blips to clear her up , not so with this carb .... No bogging at all .
Fitting was simple enough apart from having to make a cable , undo the subframe , mount carb on to inlet , warm up airbox boot and fits like a glove , im thinking my throttle cable is a better fit than the standard one too .
Cant wait till tomorrow to try her properly :D

Chris
 
I have spoke with Corey on the phone about 4stroke application and they have made them...whether or not we can preorder them or not would be the main question.

whether it is a fuel adjuster or an air adjuster...technically it should work either way if it works off vacuum from the engine. Then again if I was so friggin smart I would have made it myself...so only Corey and the boys could really answer this.

Frankly we have spent more time developing the SmartCarb for 4 stroke applications than 2 strokes. So, YES, we are developing a 39mm-44mm side pull w/throttle position sensor design in conjunction with the die cast 2 stroke carburetors we are preparing to release this spring. They will be die cast as well and likely we won't ever release any billet versions of these, as they simply would be too expensive.

A Keihin FCR style 4 stroke replacement carburetor is much more expensive to develop and build than the PWK replacement carburetor we released this fall. So they will have to fall in line sometime a little later, but they are coming, mostly to satisfy the 4 stroke off road market, but we will have V-Twin applications too. http://www.flickr.com/photos/89546082@N08/8210476175/in/photostream

We also have 18-20mm 4 stroke carburetors for the Asian industrial motorcycle and scooter markets and have already achieved EPA/ARB certification with a GY6 scooter based SmartCarb in the US, without the need of a catalytic converter.

Market wise there are many more 4 strokes than 2 strokes and is most likely the market we can achieve emissions certification in, so it's a big deal for us. We will begin certification validation testing for Zaeta and TM's 530 4 stroke after the first of the year and it's very likely it will certify for North America. If that truly happens then we will literally be overrun by manufacturers who are tired of playing the throttle stop, lean pop, unsatisfactory A/F settings game they are playing now to sell in the US and North American markets. EURO III, well that's a different animal and may require a lightly loaded CAT to meet certification, but it is certainly doable.

The SmartCarb for 2 strokes, combined with other technologies might meet emissions regs in the US at some point and hold off DFI for awhile. But for now the SmartCarb alone can provide upwards of 50% emissions reductions in premix applications, though far short of meeting EPA street legal certification.

Corey
 
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