Marzocchi 48mm CC Forks

Leo said:
You can mix 5W and 10W (same brand) in order to archieve a custon oil ;)
Click to expand...

I'm not and experimentation type of person. If I even could find the Marzocchi oil here in the US I just get that.

Any one else have a brand suggestion that worked for them?

So far KYB
 
I'll be using Amsoil 5wt which is a similar viscosity to the KYB 01 that twowheels uses. Seems the main thing here is to pick an oil and then tune for it.
 
I am going to get into mine at some stage as I reckon the internal cartridge may not be bled correctly as I have a clunk which was not there before the forks were done.
Happy with the overall action but the clunk is annoying and when it occurs it feels like the fork is bottoming although the final inch of the shaft is not being used. Seems to me like I am not getting the full range and from re reading glenn's and others articles on GGforum it could be that the internal was bled like a KYB or Showa???
We will see.

I will also be getting the shock oil changed and whilst there see if I need a heavier spring and better valving as the rear end kicks up quite a bit no matter what I do.

Cheers Mark
 
Simmo737 said:
LUCKILY there is no easier fork to work on, you need two specialty tools that every yz from 2005 on needs too, the compression unit removal octagonal socket and a universal Showa kyb fork cap wrench ( 40 bucks the lot MAX) you also need to be able to set the fork oil height, motion pro or race tech make good tools for cheap for this, or you can make something homemade with a ruler and a syringe. You need a measuring jug and a fine measurement vessel like a cheap mm rain guage from a hardware store or a 500 mm measuring tube of the net for fifteen bucks.

Then you need a cartridge holder, 2 by 4 ( forbeetwo in oz) pine, drill a 1"1/4 hole and cut down the middle. Done.
Click to expand...

So what is the Octagonal socket? First time opening shocks at all and other knowing what a YZ is I have no idea what tool your referring too.

Also the Fork cap I think you mean this, but is that the right size again I have no clue
http://www.amazon.com/Wrench-Motorc...=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Showa+kyb+fork+cap+wrench

All I did was loosen the cap on mine so far, it came right off with a good adjustable plumbing wrench. A little worried on this octagonal socket deal you mention. But i think that is for taking the cartridge apart, am I correct? Again what size is that...I see plenty on Amazon but don't know what size to get.
 
Simmo737 said:
http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Chamber-CRF250R-CRF450R-KAWASAKI/dp/B003O6SMIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_3

These two
Click to expand...

Thank you...

So I broke down the Forks, emptied the fluid out of the slider chamber and it was like everyone else said being dirty. Cleaned up all the fluid, tried to measure it and I got 200cc out of each leg. So maybe with the rest that was on the various surfaces maybe 250cc is my best prediction. Which is well short of the 300 minimum and 320 standard. I put in 320cc into each.

So at least the main oil is changed and good practice for me. I also took the time to lube the steering stem bearing.

It was pretty easy to break the fork down, a lot easier then I thought it would be. I'll probably make a 2x4 holder for my vice for future break down's and for holding the cartridge (I could see needing it for that.

Next go around I'll do a video....Probably change it in the spring sometime.

Now onto yanking a XR650R motor out of my other bike to give to my brother inlaw to break down. Rebuild time.
 
Pulled mine down today and was a little surprised to find a few things.:eek:

The inner fluid on both forks was 210 which was good but the left hand side oil was dirty whereas the right side was clean?
The outer fluid was 250ml on the left fork and 240 on the right???

These forks had bugger all bottoming resistance and also had the dreaded clunk , which is why I delved into them.

I also found an alloy spacer? loose on the internal part.
The spacer is located at the bottom of the internal cartridge and is near the point where the two pieces meet if the shaft is compressed all the way in. It is held there loosely by a circlip?
I did not notice this on the first leg.
The PFP adjuster was loose and the spring had heaps of room to move around( about 3mm). I tightened this up and the spring had a little bit of slop still but seemed good.

When redoing the comp adjustments I noticed the last fork I did only had 16 clicks instead of about 24?

I refilled both the inner and outer cartridges to the specs( 210 and 340ml).
I have not had a chance to test the bike as it is late here but I will give it a go tomorrow.

Cheers Mark
 
It's a while since doing mine but I can't remember a spacer, I find these forks "use"outer fork oil, it reduces with time.

Interesting.

wence said:
Pulled mine down today and was a little surprised to find a few things.:eek:

The inner fluid on both forks was 210 which was good but the left hand side oil was dirty whereas the right side was clean?
The outer fluid was 250ml on the left fork and 240 on the right???

These forks had bugger all bottoming resistance and also had the dreaded clunk , which is why I delved into them.

I also found an alloy spacer? loose on the internal part.
The spacer is located at the bottom of the internal cartridge and is near the point where the two pieces meet if the shaft is compressed all the way in. It is held there loosely by a circlip?
I did not notice this on the first leg.
The PFP adjuster was loose and the spring had heaps of room to move around( about 3mm). I tightened this up and the spring had a little bit of slop still but seemed good.

When redoing the comp adjustments I noticed the last fork I did only had 16 clicks instead of about 24?

I refilled both the inner and outer cartridges to the specs( 210 and 340ml).
I have not had a chance to test the bike as it is late here but I will give it a go tomorrow.

Cheers Mark
Click to expand...
 
after 12 hours mine were at 290 and 300, so possibly, if you feel the legs there is usually a film on them..... i could be wrong, just never seen legs use oil like these.
 
Geez that is a big loss then. I am still going to be asking a few questions on Monday though, mainly about the PFP and the spacer part.
Cheers Mark
 
Watching this ;) Sus it out Mark

Seems somewhat strange and I agree thats a load of oil to lose. I've dropped a capful of suspension fluid on the workbench and it goes a fair way..

Also, whats everyone using for bushings/seals in these legs? Any crossovers? The stock ones are tight. Mega stiction, especially if the bikes been sitting for a few days.
 
Well,
The work I did has made the fork a lot lot better.
No more rebound clunk and no bottoming at all. This is a far cry from how I received them after their service.
I could almost guarantee they were not bled as Glen and co. have worked out but probably just like a showa etc.
The inner cart after pulling it the first time was not right as I did the quick pump thing and a bit of air and oil was released which surprised me as I would have thought it would occur in normal riding?
The forks are now how I expected them to be.
I had to reuse some oil last night as I realised I only had 200ml or so of new stuff.
These forks are really easy to work with( oil changing wise), and as soon as I work out what the go is with the spacer/washer bit I will delve in there again with fresh oil throughout.
Cheers Mark
 
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