Marzocchi 48mm CC Forks
- Thread starter SolidPerformance
- Start date
Leo
New member
Can't remember for sure but I think so.
When I overfill the cartridge and try to mount I see that I was in trouble. So I use the straps to help. But I in trouble yet. Too much force needed. So I move the piston and some oil leak. Then I was able to get closer. Then move the piston again. more oil flow thru the holes and I was more and more closer. After 3 or 4 times I put the cap
and do the final piston bleed.
GMP
Active member
Vindicator,
Will do, once I get my motor back together. I'm compiling notes from all the info on this subject. You know, Les told me that closing the cartridge would be harder if the PFP were not backed all the way out, but didn't mention it being a big problem otherwise. This is from a guy still recovering from serious heart issues and surgery, and not in the best of shape at this point I'm sure. If it required massive physical strength, or a special tool/fixture/procedure, I think he would have told me so when I asked if there was anything special I should know. Only special tool was a rebound piston band retainer he made up, but the oring trick sounds slick and easy. Could we be missing something? You guys are ahead of me on this one and I'm not saying your wrong, but something just seems a bit strange. Even from a mfg. perspective, you don't wan't to design something thats labor intensive and expensive to assemble.
Will do, once I get my motor back together. I'm compiling notes from all the info on this subject. You know, Les told me that closing the cartridge would be harder if the PFP were not backed all the way out, but didn't mention it being a big problem otherwise. This is from a guy still recovering from serious heart issues and surgery, and not in the best of shape at this point I'm sure. If it required massive physical strength, or a special tool/fixture/procedure, I think he would have told me so when I asked if there was anything special I should know. Only special tool was a rebound piston band retainer he made up, but the oring trick sounds slick and easy. Could we be missing something? You guys are ahead of me on this one and I'm not saying your wrong, but something just seems a bit strange. Even from a mfg. perspective, you don't wan't to design something thats labor intensive and expensive to assemble.
twowheels
New member
I talked to Les yesterday and he seemed healthy as a young colt ... and then he said resealing the cartridge was a two-man job.
How much force is required? Sounds like at least 7mm x whatever the pressure spring rate is ... plus you've got to move additional fluid through the standard compression piston.
Try one of the sliding socket bars so you can bare down from both sides with the socket in the middle - I could get oh so close with just a wrench, but not engage the thread.
How much force is required? Sounds like at least 7mm x whatever the pressure spring rate is ... plus you've got to move additional fluid through the standard compression piston.
Try one of the sliding socket bars so you can bare down from both sides with the socket in the middle - I could get oh so close with just a wrench, but not engage the thread.
Sounds easy to screw up the first few threads too. What about removing it, did you have to push on it hard to avoid it tearing the last threads out?
twowheels
New member
It's on there good-n-tight. As for the action required to dislodge it, think slide hammer. I positioned the cartridge loosely in a vise and then rotated it as I was repetitively striking it on the vise jaws.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Don't SKF offer 2 grades of seal? A low stiction model and a durable one? From the research I did re seals Genuine KYB seem to be preffered choice of Terry Hay (Shock Treatment/Race Tech Australia).
"The SKF seals have low drag and guess what...low durability. So far I have not passed comment on the SKF seals until I have had time to assess them on a number of bikes and over a period of several months. On average I have found them to fail appr 40% faster than others. My seal of choice for the KTMs is the kayaba seals found in YZFs or KXFs. Lower drag than the KTMs with comparable durability. Given that they sell for half the price of the SKF makes them a no brainer."
"The results are what the results are. I'm not trying to sell seals here, just simply relaying the data. If you've been lucky so far....that's nice. We have tried these seals on over 40 bikes for the past 7 months. I won't be ordering any more. I would suggest you try the KYB seals. Very little difference in drag and much more reliable."
GMP
Active member
As a rule I always reseal my forks off season, so I have no surprises in season. I will do this with KYB stuff, but was just questioning if there was an improvement in stiction that made doing it sooner rather than later. I do not doubt the stock stuff is durable, and stiction is vastly reduced with seal grease under the wiper. They are really only bad after the bike sits for awhile.
twowheels
New member
... very easy to engage if you apply force directly down on the cap. I'll post a picture when I get a chance, but in the meantime consider this justification to buy another tool if you don't have one of these already.
twowheels
New member
As good practice I apply downforce when I'm backing it out, but its not really too much of an issue because the oil tends to keep the piston and PFP mostly pulled down into the cartridge. If you've got the PFP preload backed out there's only a mild pop.
The threads also seem to be beefier than what you typically see on a WP/KYB/Showa.
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Good stuff in this thread. I wish to add my $.02 worth, if you all will indulge me.
I've found that many bikes of different brands suffer "stiction" in the fork action after sitting for a while.
My theory is that the upper lip of the seal will dry somewhat, and the stiction is the result of that loss of lubrication.
Glenn,
I see that you use seal grease under the wiper for this condition.
My favorite remedy is to cut a 1/4" diameter "string" of air filter material and saturate it in fork oil; and then place it between the fork seal and the wiper.
This gives lubrication after the bike has been sitting for a while, and also tends to catch any dust and grit that gets by the wiper; temporarily keeping it out of the oil seal.
When cleaning the bike after an extremely nasty ride, it's easy to pull the wiper, and clean and re-oil the air filter material "string".
Up through the time it was stolen (June 22), my '06 with the 'Zoke 45 Shivers never had a seal leak, or even weep. That was 4 years on the original seals and almost 3 years on the set installed when I had them modified. (I received the 2006 DE300 on Sept 1, 2005.)
Good Riding and Suspension Tuning to You All!
Jim
.
GMP
Active member
Jim,
You ae completely correct. What I neglected to state was that I in fact use a section of 1/8" nylon cord packed with seal grease between the wiper and seal. Been doing this for years, and I think we discussed it on the old Smackover forum. This acts as both a grease retainer and additional dirt catcher. I pop the wipers every few rides and clean/regrease. You know when the wipers are shot because the cord will get very dirty quickly. Seals can last me up to two seasons, but I now do them in the winter so I have no problems.
Good to hear from you, and sorry about your bikes.
You ae completely correct. What I neglected to state was that I in fact use a section of 1/8" nylon cord packed with seal grease between the wiper and seal. Been doing this for years, and I think we discussed it on the old Smackover forum. This acts as both a grease retainer and additional dirt catcher. I pop the wipers every few rides and clean/regrease. You know when the wipers are shot because the cord will get very dirty quickly. Seals can last me up to two seasons, but I now do them in the winter so I have no problems.
Good to hear from you, and sorry about your bikes.
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Extreme durability and longevity and they are removable and can be reinstalled o er and o er.
We developed these seals almost 10 years ago.
They are also very slippery once broken in.
I have customers calling up all the time stating that they need new seals finally after 4 years 5 years 2 years.
They are different to install but once you do it a couple times they are very simple to do.
Go to youtube ans search "synergyseals".
Rob
