My either Crazy or that knocking /pinging is BAD...

lower your idle. let the bike come to temp. shoot vid. zing the throttle a few times during the vid, and let it return to idle. maybe pull the choke for a second to see if it dies or calms down...that will tell a lot more.

plug look good? quality 2t oil, and proper mix? does clutch lever make noise go away?

i do know this, they get real noisy when you lose all the radiator fluid :)

mine is quieter than all of these vids, but it's all brand new top and bottom last week...
 
Idle lowered in first Video

zing the throttle as requested in both vids

, and let it return to idle. maybe pull the choke Bike died in Video two


plug look good looks perfect ( maybe a bit rich ) quality 2t oil, YES SIR and proper mix?50-1 does clutch lever make noise go away negative pulled in both videos


First Video at 16 seconds you can really hear it, Sounds like a OLD diesel Tractor..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdKL...xt=C3e8d2f9UDOEgsToPDskJn4rxwT0yKgxEI-K8garjS

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chVa...xt=C39e9610UDOEgsToPDskLnYMPfP3OhsH-B2bQLkKp6
 
First video does sound better for sure.

I can hear the noise you speak of and mine sounds very similar. I can confirm that a fresh top end will reduce the noise considerably. I'm back at 80hrs now and don't have a vid from when mine was fresh.

I also believe the noise is reflected back by the aluminium bash plate which makes it sound much louder than it should.

What size jug is on it? If it really concerns you a top end is easy enough to drop in. You could also take a peek in the exhaust port to inspect how much wear is showing on the piston skirt, and if there's much blow by past the rings.
 
MAY as in unknown history? A top end kit and a few spare hours is all you need. Some basic tools. I'll try dig up a link to another forum with a step by step with pics.
 
From: http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=72213&highlight=rebuild

Decided to have a look inside the Gasser this morning as it's done 70hrs now. Here's how I did it.

Remove seat, tank, expansion chamber and radiator shrouds. Drain coolant by removing drain screw in waterpump.





Disconnect lower radiator hoses on both sides. Remove lower radiator mounting bolts and pivot radiators forward. You may need to disconnect the small hoses to the expansion tank as well. This allows access to the cylinder head brace bolt and more room to remove the cylinder. Unbolt water fitting from cylinder head and pull back out of the way. Remove both powervalve covers.



 
Remove 8mm nut and washer securing powervalve linkage and unhook linkage from powervalve.



Remove cylinder head brace bolt and loosen bolt on other end of brace. Pivot brace out of the way. It's not necessary to remove the cylinder head to do the job but I did so I could measure my squish. Remove the 4 nuts holding the base of the cylinder and remove cylinder. It's easiest to do if you have the piston at BDC.





 
Clean all gasket surfaces and fit new base baskets (the number and thickness will vary, I left the stock thickness). Fit new piston and rings. Ready to go back together.



Reassemble in reverse order and fill with coolant, job done. In retrospect it could have easily gone to 100hrs or more.

 
check your cylinder to frame mount bolts, and exhaust o-rings.... maybe something rattling there? it does not sound terrible.....

it could be noise bouncing back from skid plate, i have foam between plate and frame...
 
Was the second video recorded just after the first one? Meaning the first one was with the engine cold, then the second one was with the engine warmer from running.

First video sounds like cold engine piston slap. Second video sounds almost normal.
 
Thanks Everyone I guess my next questions is where do I get the parts to do the top end???

I will check all of the bolts tonight and remove the fram guard to see how it sounds..


Neil, Both were taking at the same time with me only lowering the Idle.. I rode the bike 20 minutes before shooting both.
 
Scar13 said:
Thanks Everyone I guess my next questions is where do I get the parts to do the top end???

I will check all of the bolts tonight and remove the fram guard to see how it sounds..


Neil, Both were taking at the same time with me only lowering the Idle.. I rode the bike 20 minutes before shooting both.
Click to expand...

How does it ride? Power delivery still strong? Have you had a peak in the exhaust port yet?

You need to look on the cylinder to see what sized is stamped on. A / B / C then order a top end kit with the next size up (GMP recommendation). Your local dealer/ebay/online should be able to provide what you need.

Like everyone else has said though, these engines do make some noise. It sounds like an old deisel but will trudge up a hill like one too!
 
stainlesscycle said:
it could be noise bouncing back from skid plate, i have foam between plate and frame...
Click to expand...

+1. I put some foam between my skid plate to deaden the vibrating noise. Also check radiator protectors (if running them) as the brace rods can loosen or break at one end (as mine did) and make a similar rattle noise from vibration.
 
has anybody figured this out yet?

mine has exactly the same noise as what your describing and the videos.
mine not long ago had a replate but is due a new pisting on think as ive done about 80 hours.

im tempted to mess with the powervalve adjustment?
 
I tightened up the PV linkage after the first ride. Made it MUCH quieter. Now I can hear other annoying noises like the exhaust rattling due to sacked out o-rings. For some reason they only seem to last about 10 hours before the exhaust gets sloppy loose and starts rattling.
 
this all seems pretty reassuring to me since mine sounds just like all vids here :-) and it had a brand new top end, new nicasil plated and new piston, done at main factory in Spain from gasgas!
the noise does go away somewhat when pulling the clutch.
and i was about to refresh the bottom end, but then i just bought a pretty ec200 instead and put the ec 300 aside for now (it was to much of a bike for me anyway,for what i do,single track) :D

ciao, Hannes.
 
Drain the coolant. Remove all parts to get the RHS engine cover off. Remove RHS engine cover and you'll see where the linkage comes in to the governor.
 
Just for piece of mind....You could pull the rotor cover and check main bearing play.

Also pull the plug and pipe bring the piston to tdc, roll the rotor back and forth,
place your finger on the piston thur the port and see if you can feel any excessive play in the rod bearings.
Would be nice if you had a dial indicator but the other way will work.
Even from there you can try to move the piston around with your finger to see what play there is.

Last would be to pull the topend and check clearences, piston to wall, ring end gap..top mid bottom of cylinder.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Sold my '05 Gasser 300...got a YZ250X
2
Replies
31
Views
21K
CampX
C
Berkyboy
  • Sticky
GG Clutch basket photos
4 5 6
Replies
104
Views
112K
jgas
J
REVERUP
First ride on my set up 2011 XC 300E
2
Replies
26
Views
15K
MrBlah
M
W
2011 GasGas EC 300e
Replies
11
Views
8K
twowheels
twowheels
SpeedyManiac
2008 Desert 100 - aka 100 miles of rocks and whoops
Replies
5
Views
8K
flybars
F
Back
Top