APT SmartCarb

Thats the only thing that concerns me, but the cast carb will have the valves built in. Even a PWK laying on the ground for 30 sec. or so will take a few kicks to get going. Any longer than that and chances are their are bigger problems.:eek:
 
It took four kicks to get it going again. I was at my house when I did this just to see what would happen. I have had more trouble starting kids bikes that tip over when working a check point.
 
Anyone with an auto clutch and Smart Carb combo?
My Rekluse equipped bike usually stays running until I can get it picked up. I wonder if the Smart Carb will run on its side as readily as an ASII.

Also, on the restart attempt after tip-over, are you starting per normal or going straight to a WOT flooded technique?
 
Thats a very good question. I would think though with a flooded motor at kickstart speed it would not matter what carb is on it, as long as the throttle is wide open.
 
One thing i forgot to mention before was the duel map mode , before i put the carb on there was only a small change from one setting to the other .
When i was out trail riding after fitting the carb i thought id change to the rain mode , there was night and day difference to the point i quickly switched back .
I have the recluse on my bike and found if you fell off and got to the bike quick you could keep it running , if not its several kicks to get started again .
 
Yes i have the SC and rekluse and have had the bike keep running on it's side for a few seconds but if it dies it's been a bit difficult to start but i think Corey isn't very far away from having this issue resolved for the billets and the cast will be taken care of right from the start.I found it was much easier to hold the throttle wide open till it started.
Dave
 
Good info to know Dave. I too have the SC and EXP on my Husky but knock on wood I haven't laid it over while running.
 
Singletracker you do set and forget with the SmartCarb :D. I had to re-dial it in due to loaning it out and my son trying it on his TM 250MX.
 
Summary

About a month ago I made it though the entire very long SmartCarb thread over at KTMTalk. After doing so and speaking with the guys at SC I wrote this summary so if someone didn't want to wade all the way through they could get answers to the basic questions. I had at that point also made it through about 1/3 of this thread, mostly the last third.

I pre-ordered a 38mm cast carb and until they come out I'm not sure what else there is to talk about so I haven't kept up. So sorry if this stuff is old hat but I thought it might be helpful and should cross over to GG.

>>>I'll summarize as I see it so someone not wanting to spend the considerable time to read the whole thread will have some basic info in one post.

Die cast carbs will be about a pound lighter then the billet.

The billet carbs are 300grams heavier than a stock carb. I don't know if I read that here or in the GG thread but the die cast may actually be lighter than our stock Keihins. Whom ever said 300g is 6.5 oz, it is not. Ha.

They will also apparently have internal routing eliminating the external plastic tubes.

They will be around $400 or about half the price of the billet.

They probably won't be available until spring or maybe even summer, even though they hope for and say earlier.

The tapered carbs (36/38) are apparently designed for consistent WOT applications like snowmobiles or perhaps MX, but the straight bore are more what we are interested in, even for MX imo.

SmartCarb says that a 38 will be better on top end and give up some bottom and the 36 will be better on bottom and give up some top. But they also say a 36 is good for a 200cc and for a 300cc. The GG guys are mostly all running 38mm SmartCarbs on their 300s. I think because most of their 300s came with 38s from the factory and a few came with 36s. They report good throttle response from off idle to WFO with 38. So a 36 or a 38 for a modded KTM 300SX is still a bit unclear to me. [[I went with the 38. Not that I had a choice at this point]]

The biggest issue to date is the lack of an overflow tube which allows for filling of the cylinder with fuel. This seems to happen somewhat regularly during installation (stuck float I think) or if the bike is inverted, or probably even laid down on it's side considering how quickly fuel runs out when I lay my bike down. Some report considerable trouble getting the fuel out once this has happened. The die cast carbs will likely have external overflow and they are working on a retrofit for the billet that they will provide to anyone who has already purchased a carb; at no charge as I understand it. <<<

SC also said that they would be sold with a throttle cable included but had yet to find a vendor to supply at a reasonable price. I think I read here that they have worked out the stock cable issues but have not verified that. Maybe that is more of a KTM problem.
 
KTM Talk is up to 62 pages now. You guys need to talk a bit more :) But pretty much neck in neck. Hope this thing lives up to our expectations.
 
Thanks for the summary, Modifer. Many will benifit.
I don't think there will be an external overflow, but rather an external drain.
 
Yes i have the SC and rekluse and have had the bike keep running on it's side for a few seconds but if it dies it's been a bit difficult to start but i think Corey isn't very far away from having this issue resolved for the billets and the cast will be taken care of right from the start.I found it was much easier to hold the throttle wide open till it started.
Dave

Initially when I dumped the bike over I'd have gas shooting out of the pipe with each kick! Blamed it on the overflow issue. Nope. Set the float correctly, and it will now keep running on it's side. It hasn't died on its side since!
 
Is the metering rod adjuster in the top of the carb sealed with an oring? Just thought about that.
 
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