APT SmartCarb

I'd be checking for airleaks diggs, or richening the knob up a few clicks. Hows the rest of the performance been? I'm looking forward to the roll out of the cast models. Feels like time just can't pass fast enough.
 
A '12? I'm going to go off the map here and ask if you checked your coolant? Why? Because I lost ALL the coolant in my '12 due to a bad cap sealing surface in the left side rad. It escaped slowly over a long ride, no big steam cloud, no indications of a problem. Then, bike got hot/lean symptoms like you describe. Run on and pinging, I thought I had a fuel starvation problem before checking the coolant.

The rad neck and sealing lip had a rough surface, like the external anodizing. I found the problem with a pressure test. It was easily fixed by buffing the surface clean and smooth with scotchbrite, cleaning of debris, and retesting.

Other than that, check the spigot coupler for cracks, unlikely on a newer bike though. From what was said about the SC, its important to hold the throttle open hard while making the adjustment to engage the adjuster.
 
I agree. That staccato rhythm at idle sounds exactly like my bike during a race last month when I unknowingly got a small poke through my radiator and lost much of the coolant. The bike ran normally until after it was warmed up and I did a nice high-speed run. When I backed off the throttle to idle, there returned the staccato.

I had the radiator fin repaired and filled with coolant. All is well.
 
The GG motor is amazing in its tolerance to dissipate heat and not incur damage. Thats where the extra mass is good. I opened the coolant drain when I got back to my truck and only a few cc dribbled out. I thought the worst, tore it down, and all was fine. On this same ride, even the 2stroke KTMs were boiling over on bottlenecked muddy hill climbs.
 
i checked the coolant and all is fine , that was one of my thoughts too , look at this clip http://contour.com/videos/watch/file0042-1--4
this was a short blast up a steep climb which ended about 10 seconds after (my camera was playing the fool too) , the bike was pinking really bad ... just like id rode a real deep hard sand track and the bike was overheating .
funny thing was it wasnt consistant , sometime it was worse than others , it also seemed to run better when we came down in altitude to 200feet.
id say if you were on the gas all the time it would be great , its just annoying when you8 come to a corner and you chop the throttle and for a few seconds the bike runs on :eek:
 
See how much room the 12 frame has with the standard tank
3E4BA390-B61A-4674-ACAD-4F505D8A669F-2315-0000032B8337AB11.jpg

The gasget where the two parts of the carb meet seems damp , would that indicate a leak
65CA0BFA-9F26-4D77-8A68-815960E73F18-2315-0000032B895D2B64.jpg


Would it be possible to start a thread for troubleshooting in the tech forums with a copy of a manual and some FAQ as a reference , when I was out yesterday I wasn't sure which way to turn for rich , had a quick look on here between stops and couldn't find anything , same on the smart carb site , I had a good idea it was clockwise to ritchen but wasn't sure.
 
Yep clockwise to richen and counter clockwise to lean. Makes since when you think about it; raise the metering rod for more gas and lower for less. I can adjust mine without getting off the bike :D.
 
Yep clockwise to richen and counter clockwise to lean. Makes since when you think about it; raise the metering rod for more gas and lower for less. I can adjust mine without getting off the bike :D.

You dont have a 12 then , is yours tight and kinda clunky when turning the adjuster
 
smaret carb

Diggs, I've had problems w/ mine showing signs of leakage. mine were @ the bowl though. Aaron @ APT said to clean it up and use a compound sealant.
I tryed adj. the float level a dozen times. No matter how low the level was
it still leaked!!! Thats when I used the sealant reluctantly. I a little spooked @
yours leaking @ the vertical joint? Keep us posted.
 
Correct I don't have the 12 or even a GG at this time. My SC is mounted up on my 08 CR165 Husky. I could see it being tight on a new GG though. On turning the adjuster I've found if you press it down first as instructed and then open the throttle you kinda turn the adjuster and slightly play with the throttle position until you feel it engage then the clcks are smooth and you and feel them as the click. Not applying to much throttle pressure works for me.
 
Diggs, I've had problems w/ mine showing signs of leakage. mine were @ the bowl though. Aaron @ APT said to clean it up and use a compound sealant.
I tryed adj. the float level a dozen times. No matter how low the level was
it still leaked!!! Thats when I used the sealant reluctantly. I a little spooked @
yours leaking @ the vertical joint? Keep us posted.

mine has minimal leakage on the bowl , im not too bothered about that i just want it to run right .
there is a small screw in the top of the slide with a ball bearing the other end that iv adjusted which should make it a bit easyer to adjust the needle
 
Correct I don't have the 12 or even a GG at this time. My SC is mounted up on my 08 CR165 Husky. I could see it being tight on a new GG though. On turning the adjuster I've found if you press it down first as instructed and then open the throttle you kinda turn the adjuster and slightly play with the throttle position until you feel it engage then the clcks are smooth and you and feel them as the click. Not applying to much throttle pressure works for me.

yes i do it the same way but its tight to turn , ive adjusted the small bearing that locates in the grooved bit and that seems better
 
Also check your water pump impeller. They are back to using plastic again. Mine was dragging on the cover and could (would?) have failed if I didn't catch it. Cover casting was bad as well.

This was not uncommon some years back, and why Les at LTR started to mfg alloy impellers. GG went to alloy in '05 as well, now back to the same old parts that failed ten yrs ago. I could understand a new design/materials, but I have older ones and this is the same exact part.

Maybe swap your PWK back in for a ride to isolate it as a Smartcarb issue.
 
Also check your water pump impeller. They are back to using plastic again. Mine was dragging on the cover and could (would?) have failed if I didn't catch it. Cover casting was bad as well.

This was not uncommon some years back, and why Les at LTR started to mfg alloy impellers. GG went to alloy in '05 as well, now back to the same old parts that failed ten yrs ago. I could understand a new design/materials, but I have older ones and this is the same exact part.

Maybe swap your PWK back in for a ride to isolate it as a Smartcarb issue.
thanks , i checked the impeller when i put the new piston in and all was good , only rode twice since , it was doing it from cold too , i tried putting the soft power map on and it wasnt so bad .
out of interest glenn , does your bike have the yz kickstart on , i thought my new boots were slipping off but it seems the bit you kick has bent .

i might put the pwk back on for the race as id be gutted if i fell off between checks and lost time due to a flooded motor.
 
Based on the hot and cold occurance I'd definitely be looking for an air leak. Either from the weeping area on the smart carb, or the boots themselves. Failing that maybe stator side seal. Great idea to swap the PWK back in to isolate the issue too. Good luck Diggs.

Up to this how has the smartcarb been?
 
i did a compression check last night on my cheapy guage and it read 180 psi ,how does that sound ?. i also talked to my pal who knows his stuff and he says its running rich , which explains why it gets worse the higher you go .
hey jake , i do like the carb , when it runs well it runs great , i just need to iron out a few little niggles the same as with any other carb , my problem has been lack of time and iv only been out 3 times since i bought it so im still in the setting up phase , its a bit hard to start playing with setting when your out trailriding and you have a lot of ground to cover with a group .

im going to get some fresh fuel later and go out on my own for an hour or two and see if i can iron out the small problems i have .

the only problem i have with the carb is the dumping of the fuel into the cylinder , but there will be a fix for that very soon i hope :D
 
i did a compression check last night on my cheapy guage and it read 180 psi ,how does that sound ?. i also talked to my pal who knows his stuff and he says its running rich , which explains why it gets worse the higher you go .
hey jake , i do like the carb , when it runs well it runs great , i just need to iron out a few little niggles the same as with any other carb , my problem has been lack of time and iv only been out 3 times since i bought it so im still in the setting up phase , its a bit hard to start playing with setting when your out trailriding and you have a lot of ground to cover with a group .

im going to get some fresh fuel later and go out on my own for an hour or two and see if i can iron out the small problems i have .

the only problem i have with the carb is the dumping of the fuel into the cylinder , but there will be a fix for that very soon i hope :D

Sorry guys, late getting back from the Indy Powersports Expo.

The three way area where the carb bodies come together and the bowl is a troubling area for sealing. The cast carbs are a one piece body with an o ring on the bowl, so this issue will go away. Currently a dab of rtv sealant in that area takes care of any problems that may occur. Cometic did us a little wrong on the length of the body gasket, usually just weeps a little fuel if not sealed properly as it's pretty hard to leak air from there because of the width of those sealing surfaces, but certainly possible.

Does sound like an air leak so be sure to check the body bolts of the carb for tightness or any other possibilities for air leaks. Make sure the choke plunger is seating all the way and no issues there.

We are nearing completion of the overflow valve testing and will soon make them available. Probably in the next several weeks. We will make them available for those desiring them (seems not everybody wants them). Anyway we can send them to you with instructions for removal/installation, or better for us, those that are close enough and willing to send theirs in, we will install no charge. :)
 
thanks corey
its running much better now , i stripped the carb ,checked the choke , empty the tank and filled with fresh fuel,tightened the screws a little more. lowered the float height a little , but can still go some more which i will do during the week, reset the needle to 50 out and then adjusted it while i was riding to about 60 which seemed much better :D
 
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