APT SmartCarb

I run a G2, #200 cam. I suspect I will go back to the stock #100 cam. Maybe even try the 2K-2 naked, sans weight.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I've been running the #025 cam with the 2K3. I enjoy how easy it is to whack wide open now. Definitely took a ride to get used to though. I'm very excited about bolting the Smartcarb on and seeing where it takes me. I've also only been using a 13/50 combo on the 250 so can step up another few teeth on the rear if it needs more snap.
 
You wouldn't need or want a faster cam if you got rid of that overweight flywheel. I'm going to try a bare 2K-2 with the Smartcarb.
 
You wouldn't need or want a faster cam if you got rid of that overweight flywheel. I'm going to try a bare 2K-2 with the Smartcarb.

I don't doubt it one bit. Unfortunately 2K2s are hard to come across, even more so in Australia. I'll get there one day :) SmartCarb is the next purchase so we'll see where that puts the overall setup.
 
Jake,
Then you could sell all your keihin brass, and afford a vacation to the US where you could buy and bring home a 2K-2.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Also check your water pump impeller. They are back to using plastic again. Mine was dragging on the cover and could (would?) have failed if I didn't catch it. Cover casting was bad as well.

This was not uncommon some years back, and why Les at LTR started to mfg alloy impellers. GG went to alloy in '05 as well, now back to the same old parts that failed ten yrs ago. I could understand a new design/materials, but I have older ones and this is the same exact part.

Maybe swap your PWK back in for a ride to isolate it as a Smartcarb issue.

I think you are right about the overheating , iv got bike running great until i get to a section where the recluse clutch is working hard , it then starts pinging and running on .
I then went two more clicks rich and it almost cured the pinging but iv got a spooge trail on the tail pipe now , would it be worthwhile putting a checkpoint impeller in there to help with the cooling and try some other coolant .
 
It would also seen like a mix of 50/50 race gas and pump gas would help as well. Just a thought!
 
I think you are right about the overheating , iv got bike running great until i get to a section where the recluse clutch is working hard , it then starts pinging and running on .
I then went two more clicks rich and it almost cured the pinging but iv got a spooge trail on the tail pipe now , would it be worthwhile putting a checkpoint impeller in there to help with the cooling and try some other coolant .

What kind of rekluse do you have?Putting in some tungsten balls helps keep it from slipping...the more the harder it grabs.Also if it's a pro you can change out your spring to engage sooner and adjust your idle to be just above engagement.If it's the exp then those are prone to slipping and there's no cure other than heavier wedges if they offer it?
Dave
 
Mine is just the regular z start , they didnt do a pro for the gas gas , ill try a few more tungsten balls in it at the weekend , as for 50/50 with race gas im not even sure where i would get that in the uk :confused:.
It may be better to take the rekluse out , but its such a good tool in the woods and helps me out too;)
 
If your overheating, something is WRONG. GGs don't need anything special as far as coolant, the systems are large, rads large, and castings thick. If all is well you should never boil even in the tightest of woods with a 1.4 Bar cap. A stock KTM 250 will have boiled itself dry before you have any hint of trouble. Get that pump cover off and check the impeller, and yes replace it. On my '12 I had to releive the back of the Checkpoint impeller a bit to get enough clearance. My '07 was fine. Take the side cover off the bike and do a test fit. Put some clay on the inside pump cover and temporarily mount it with gasket, remove and you will see clearance. Finally verify no interferance by turning the pump gear by hand.


Also, don't judge mixture by spooge.
 
Interesting about removing hydraulic fluid to reduce Rekluse slipping. Can you talk about the mechanics of this ?
 
If the master is too full the fluid heats up from use, expands and is like riding around with the clutch partially disengaged. Like slipping the clutch with your fingers. Can't tell you how many times I have heard my Rekluse slips after I have been riding for a while, reduce fluid level all fixed.
 
Interesting. As a compulsive fluid topper-offer, I can imagine that fixing other problems as well. Clutch squawk. (?) for one example.
 
I find it hard to believe a slipping clutch in a GG 2stroke can produce enough heat to cause a boil over. The oil is normally cold compared to a thumper which is always on the edge.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
If the master is too full the fluid heats up from use, expands and is like riding around with the clutch partially disengaged. Like slipping the clutch with your fingers. Can't tell you how many times I have heard my Rekluse slips after I have been riding for a while, reduce fluid level all fixed.

This is very much like adjusting your brake pedal for minimum free play. At some point your pads will just barely drag, but that's enough to heat the caliper and the fliud. Fluid expansion rapidly puts your brake on at full power.
 
Yes, but in the case of the clutch, don't you think you would notice it first? Sorry, I should have been more clear.
 
Thinking back to when I fitted the rekluse it was getting hot and pinging when the going was tough , maybee the clutch contributed maybee not , I'd have to ride the same terain with the standard clutch to find out ,I've got some other things to try first
 
Yes, but in the case of the clutch, don't you think you would notice it first? Sorry, I should have been more clear.

You would think that people that drive around with their foot on the clutch of their car would notice it slipping also but I have replace a crap load of pressure plate, discs and even flywheels because of it.
It takes a very small amount of slippage to bring the heat up. Most overheating in bikes is because of clutch slip, be it rider induced or not, it only takes about 4 mph to keep enough air flow to cool.
Think of that tiny little fan on one rad keeping a bike cool when its not moving.
 
Back
Top