Marzocchi 48mm CC Forks

There are only two suspension specialists that I trust to custom valve my GasGas suspension and get it 'perfect for me'.
Les Tinius / LTR Racing
and
Drew Smith / http://werproducts.net/

There are a lot of good suspension techs in business, but these fellows are where I spend my money.


.
 
No offence taken Jim.

The twin chambers design is all around reducing cavitation and maintaining consistent damping performance, even when pushing hard in the chop and working the forks. I find this most noticable on declines where a twin chamber will continue to sit up in the stroke and provide much more confidence.

Don't be fooled into thinking that these forks are hard to work on. A service (fluid change) just requires one more tool. More time is probably spent resting the parts than actually assembling them.
 
Thanks to the efforts of forum members like Glenn and you, it sure makes it easier to learn how to properly set up and maintain the newer equipment on the bikes. There is not a knowledgeable dealer with a capable service tech located in every city. We have to do basic maintainence ourselves.
Good on you!

Good Riding and Wrenching to You!
Jim


.
 
For mortals 310-320ml in the outer chamber is great. We run 210ml in the inner chamber when rebuilding ... don't expect those values to be the same when you tear them down though, because the oil migrates.
 
Hi from Spain,

I have a GG EC 250 2011 with Red Marzocchi forks.

Could you please help me? Is too hard...

I have changed the springs for softer ones (3.9NM) and 175cc sae 5 for each fork , and 2,5 Sae Oil for the cartridge and is completly full, compression screw is fully open, preload on 1st position but fork is very hard for me, still remain the last 6 or 7cm unused.

Can I remove some oil from the closed cartridge in order to use all fork travel or is mandatory that closed cartridge is full of oil?

Thanks in advance and sorry for typos.
 
Last edited:
xabidh said:
Hi from Spain,

I have a GG EC 250 2011 with Red Marzocchi forks.

Could you please help me? Is too hard...

I have changed the springs for softer ones (3.9NM) and 175cc sae 5 for each fork , and 2,5 Sae Oil for the cartridge and is completly full, compression screw is fully open, preload on 1st position but fork is very hard for me, still remain the last 6 or 7cm unused.

Can I remove some oil from the closed cartridge in order to use all fork travel or is mandatory that closed cartridge is full of oil?

Thanks in advance and sorry for typos.
Click to expand...

Give us a hint - where do you ride? What skill/speed are you? How heavy are you in riding gear?
Bonus question - what are you running in terms of a rear shock? The Ohlins 888?
 
twowheels said:
Give us a hint - where do you ride? What skill/speed are you? How heavy are you in riding gear?
Bonus question - what are you running in terms of a rear shock? The Ohlins 888?
Click to expand...

I'm riding in the southeast of Spain, I have a medium level, we usually do enduro, hard enduro or technical enduro and trials (but no trail).
Our terrain is dry and rocky, only some days in the winter is muddy.
My weight is 2257.49oz (64Kg)
Yes, I have a Ohlins 888 in the rear with spring from stock and screw compresion almost fully open.

Thanks for you fast reply.
 
xabidh said:
I'm riding in the southeast of Spain, I have a medium level, we usually do enduro, hard enduro or technical enduro and trials (but no trail).
Our terrain is dry and rocky, only some days in the winter is muddy.
My weight is 2257.49oz (64Kg)
Yes, I have a Ohlins 888 in the rear with spring from stock and screw compresion almost fully open.

Thanks for you fast reply.
Click to expand...

Any idea?
 
At 140lbs I would think a revalve of the forks and shock would be necessary. You just don't weigh enough to overcome the valving in the forks/shock.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Any suggestion for revalving?
What is the configuration indicated for my weight?
I suppose that I have to change the shims for another ones which allow more flow oil or remove any.
I changed seals and oil to my bikes.... but this is my first time for revalving.


Thanks in advance
 
xabidh said:
Hi from Spain,

Can I remove some oil from the closed cartridge in order to use all fork travel or is mandatory that closed cartridge is full of oil?
Click to expand...

I know this is a late answer, but yes, the cartridge must be full. No air should be trapped inside the cartridge.

Did you find a solution to your fork being too stiff?
 
Anders said:
I know this is a late answer, but yes, the cartridge must be full. No air should be trapped inside the cartridge.

Did you find a solution to your fork being too stiff?
Click to expand...

I removed more oil from the forks, now is only 100cc for each fork and unscrew all for PFP, now is a little better, when I do big jumps only remains 2cm, take in count I practice enduro not mx.

I have to revalve the cartridge but I have lasiness, this is my next step.
 
xabidh said:
I removed more oil from the forks, now is only 100cc for each fork and unscrew all for PFP, now is a little better, when I do big jumps only remains 2cm, take in count I practice enduro not mx.

I have to revalve the cartridge but I have lasiness, this is my next step.
Click to expand...

If you're only running 100cc of oil in each leg get ready for them to self-destruct in 3 .. 2 .. 1 ...
 
I picked up my 14 300, it was Jason Dahners, ISDE racer, bike. I love the bike but am fighting the suspension big time. I ride in a very gnarly area, think TONS of wet roots and rocks.

I can not hold a line at all. If I pick a line my bike will not behave and will take it's own line, this is causing serious problems. I cut my riding short last weekend simply for safety reasons.

I have all the clickers set at 'comfort', as well as have tried 'sport' settings to no avail. I back off the PFP to 1.5 turns out, but have not tried 0 yet.

I'm a B+ rider at about 190 lbs, any suggestions?
 
markwoodlief said:
I picked up my 14 300, it was Jason Dahners, ISDE racer, bike. I love the bike but am fighting the suspension big time. I ride in a very gnarly area, think TONS of wet roots and rocks.

I can not hold a line at all. If I pick a line my bike will not behave and will take it's own line, this is causing serious problems. I cut my riding short last weekend simply for safety reasons.

I have all the clickers set at 'comfort', as well as have tried 'sport' settings to no avail. I back off the PFP to 1.5 turns out, but have not tried 0 yet.

I'm a B+ rider at about 190 lbs, any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Have you changed the fork oil and drained the cartridge as described on this thread? Cause as mentioned, outer chamber oil gets into the cartridge and gets stiffer after some hours... Assume you are correctly sprung (front and rear) with proper sag
 
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