In your opinion....
It's the same with auto clutches. The first time they hit the market, a whole bunch of stubborn Luddite brained idiots pronounced them 'stupid' and said they're only for lazy pansies....
And they were correct!
Really though, no manufacturers sell a bike that comes OEM with a fully adjustable auto crutch. It's after market, just like seats/seat foams are. Perhaps someone could design an aftermarket concept that allows for adjustability within a seat frame. Perhaps GG could modify the chassis to allow for more clearance and allow this. Perhaps it would take off and be a buying point for the potential customers.. or maybe not.
Yep in my opinion. This whole thread is peoples opinions. Just take what people say and move on.
Well said.
Despite warnings, I had my 2013 300 internally lowered. Since the bike was heavy (to me) and sapped energy picking it up, I thought it would getting it lower would help me drop it less. Obviously cutting the seat like on another manufacturer is not an option due to the lack of material.
I liked it at first because of the novelty of being able to touch, but after that wore off I realized the bike was handling pretty poorly. I would bottom out on things, scrape my feet if I had to ride through a deep rut or cut-out (I had to pick my feet off the pegs sometimes!) and it generally seemed "out-of-whack." It's kind of hard to describe, but the whole thing seemed off.
As for how it is done, i'm not quite sure, but I think it has something to do with spacers. The rear shock was also lowered the same amount. I did .5" and even that little of a change very much affected the steering. It was really noticeable once I got my 200 with stock suspension.
Whenever you lower the bike you give up something. It's compromise.
You can internally limit the travel by installing spacers to both the forks and shock, but what you give up is available stroke. You can't expect them to behave the same when you have less to work with, so generally you need to valve/spring them firmer than otherwise to ensure you don't blow through your now reduced stroke. Firmer suspension is firmer suspension, where most people want plush.
Lowering the ground clearance occurs both with limiting the suspension travel, or through sliding forks through the triples, changing linkage ratios, or simply building a chassis which is 'lower' by nature. As above you give up clearance. This poses issues and I believe the more gnarly and technical the terrain the more issues you face. Rocks, roots, step ups/downs, logs, ruts, etc all favour ground clearance. If you can get through without hooking up and smashing your frame rails into stuff, without hitting footpegs, brake pedals, and gear levers against things/the sides of ruts, the better your odds will be in keeping the feet on the pegs and not on the ground.
Which leaves seat height alone as the variable. By changing this you impact on the relationship between rider and bike. Go for a ride with no seat on and see how it feels. It loads your knees up when sitting, and makes it harder to transition between sitting, hovering, and standing aggressively... all in the favour of being able to touch the ground a bit more easily.
So there is no right/wrong way to do things, but it will always be a compromise of sorts. In saying that most manufacturers have weighed this up in their initial design to meet their target audience.
FWW, I personally just hang off one side of the bike when stopped. One leg touches the ground, my ass is off the side of the seat, and the other one is draped over the seat. Seems to work!